Beginning of August I went on a road trip along the
Mediterranean coast of Morocco from Nador and Mellila, driving westward to
Tetouan. A relatively new road, in good condition, follows the sea along the jagged
coastal cliff. It is a very winding drive, the road going up and down, and left
and right. A strong stomach is needed.
However, the views are breathtaking. I was lucky to have sunny weather all along my trip. The local weather can very quickly turn foggy and cold with wind.
There are small, medium and large beaches dotted all along the way. Each one has its own peculiarity: sand or pebbles; all shades of blue and green water; waves or calm surface; built-up resort and restaurant infrastructures, paddle boats, jetboats, parasols and deck chairs-for-rent, or just the beach and sea in their natural state. Some beaches also double as a local fishing port.
I noted two remarkable food experiences along the way. The first was at a non-descript beachfront shack in the Al Hoceima Bay. The server could not speak either English or French. With my poor local Arabic, I understood that I could get a meal of tomato-and-cucumber salad, grilled fish, some tomato sauce for dipping, and chips. I asked for the food to be delayed by twenty minutes to allow for a cooling pre-meal swim in the bay. The food then arrived piping hot and prepared-to-order. It was very simple but deliciously home-made. The fresh anchovies were perfectly grilled: slightly toasted skin but creamy soft inside and easy to debone. The tomato sauce was more like a soup but it was tasty and made of fresh tomatoes and onions. The chips were hand-cut and perfectly crispy outside, warm and soft inside. I had a delicious, nutritious and good-value meal on the beach.
My second food highlight was in the centre of Tetouan city, on
the East side of the central square named Feddan Park. The recently opened Dar Bomba restaurant is nestled under the brick vaults of the city’s former ammunition
factory. An upper-level café serves snacks and drinks with a view of the old
city. The lower floor lacks the view but compensates with exquisite food on a
level and diversity I had not yet seen during my first seven months in Morocco.
I asked to talk to the chef to compliment him. He told me he had had to fight
against the advice of his staff and friends to feature this gourmet tasting
experience. The menu changes over time to make the best use of fresh seasonal local
products. The cuisine is refined and inventive: all the dishes are highlighted with
just a touch of local spices or fresh herbs. It was a very welcome break from
the more traditional tajines, couscous and grilled meats. I ended up going there
twice to sample first the gourmet four-course menu and on the next day some separate
dishes which had caught my attention on the à la carte section of the menu.
A song for all seas, all ships
A Sea Symphony, Ralph Vaughan Williams
